Paint does not last forever. It also has an uncanny knack for making homes look new or old, based on their condition. That is why a relatively new house with peeling paint will look old. It’s while an old home with paint that is in perfect condition may look like it was just newly built.
It will all eventually need touch-ups, whether the most expensive kind of paint or only a cheap one is applied. Some will last a bit longer. All will eventually succumb to wear and tear, regardless of surface. And because they are constantly exposed to the elements, the exterior components of any home are typically the first ones to be affected.
Among those that will need repainting the soonest are the sills and frames of windows. I
How to Paint Window Frames and Sills
| Pt. | Steps | Notes |
| 1 | Check for signs of water damage, rot, mold, and mildew. | Wood is vulnerable to the elements, especially moisture. It will be useless to paint over badly damaged wood. You need to replace the damaged frame or sill first, either entirely or only the affected sections, before prepping the surface. But if mold and mildew are the only issues, treat them using fungicides. |
| 2 | Look for gaps present between the glass and the frames and seal them off using fillers, like acrylic sealants or multi-purpose putty. | Allow them to dry. Patch up any holes in the sill as well. |
| 3 | If you do not want the installed fixtures to be affected by the paint, remove them first. | Maybe you plan to open or close the window while working. You can simply loosen up the handles to allow the paint to go underneath them. |
| 4 | If working with ordinary paint with no lead, remove it using chemical strippers or a scraper. | Start with the loosest section. If lead is detected, it should be encapsulated or removed using the proper methods mentioned in the previous section. |
| 5 | Use sandpaper or sander on the frame and sill to strip off stubborn parts and roughen up the surface but still make it even. | It allows better adhesion. |
| 6 | Clean off the surface using a vacuum or a damp cloth to wipe up the area. | |
| 7 | Apply a thin layer of primer and allow it to dry first. | Once the prep work is completed, you can finally paint the window frames and sills. It includes the primer application. The primer should match the surface you will work on. Use a wood primer for wood frames and sills, a metal primer for aluminum, and a vinyl primer for vinyl ones. You have a bit more leeway when choosing which product to use. You can use different types to work on the material used for the frames and sills. After gathering the materials, namely the paint, primer, 1 to 2 ½-inch brushes, and tape, give the window frames and sills a new coat using these steps: This may take 12 hours or so. Primer can be applied using a spray can or by brush. A spray can works best on wider spaces, such as the windowsill. Use sweeping motions when spraying. |
| 8 | Once dry, stir the paint you will be using. It’s even if only using a single color. | This ensures that the ingredients are mixed together. |
| 8 | Place painter’s tape or masking tape on the weatherstrips and window tracks to prevent paint from getting into those areas. | Immediately remove any spill that gets to those areas; dried paint will prevent them from working properly. |
| 10 | Dip the brush in the bucket. | Make sure to remove excess by tapping the brush on the sides of the bucket. Apply it on the inside of the frame first, then going down to the jambs. The painting should be done from top to bottom to avoid ruining the finish with drips. |
| 11 | After painting the inside frame of sliding or tilt-out windows, open and close the window a few times to prevent it from getting stuck as it dries. | Do this repeatedly every after an hour or two if the sash was not removed. |
| 12 | If working on sliding windows, paint the upper sash first. | The lower sash should be raised up, while the upper sash should be lowered. Start at the crossbar and work towards the rest of the upper sash. You should also start at the upper sash first of tilt-out windows; access it by tilting down the bottom sash. Allow it to dry first before moving on to the lower sash. |
| 13 | To paint the lower sash, return the upper sash to its original position and drop the lower sash. | Follow the same process as the previous step. |
| 14 | With the windows open, paint the windowsill and casing. It includes the exterior window trim and the edges of the window. | |
| 15 | Once it is dry, add another layer to the sections you previously went over. | Two coats should be applied at a minimum to get the best coverage and to fully protect the surface. Continue applying paint until you get the desired coverage and color. |
| 16 | To protect the surface, you can apply a clear coat that is polyurethane-based as the final step. | This coating will also act as a sealant to prevent it from being damaged in a short time The surface must be dry before reattaching any fixtures and sashes uninstalled before painting. |
Avoid working in direct sunlight. If working in a humid environment or while raining, add one to two hours of drying time to the manufacturer’s recommendation. This will help ensure any condensation is removed from the air.
Preparing Surfaces
Before you can start applying the first coat to the window frames and sill, you need to prepare these surfaces first. Prep work is important if you want the paint to adhere to the surface and get a smooth finish properly. The kind of preparation needed will depend on the material of your window frames and sills.
Don’t forget to keep your floors or the ground protected before starting. Place plastic sheets on the ground directly under the windows you will work on, especially if it involves removing lead.
For Vinyl
- Clean up the surface by applying a degreaser using a sponge or cloth. A solution of water and dishwashing liquid is recommended because it is mild enough to prevent damaging vinyl. After scrubbing off the dirt, dry it off using a lint-free cloth.
- If using chemical removers, follow the instructions and make sure that it can be applied to vinyl surfaces. Removers that are too strong and not recommended for vinyl can damage its surface. Mineral spirits and acetone are quite safe to use.
- Use sandpaper to lightly sand the surface and roughen it a bit. 220-grit is great. The goal is to remove the shine present on the surface for better adherence.
- Get a vacuum or tack cloth to remove the dust present.
For Aluminum
- Use dishwashing liquid and water solution to clean the surface. For hard to remove dirt and grease, scrub it off with a scouring pad that is semi-abrasive.
- Remove loose or peeling parts using sandpaper or sanding block. To avoid damaging the surface, use medium-grit sandpaper. Go for 100-grit. You can also apply solvent for easier removal.
- Clean the aluminum surface with a rag to remove dust and loose chips. Use water to clean the windows and sills and let them dry. Do not apply primer to the aluminum frames and sills if it is still wet.
Once the surface has been prepped up, you can cover the glass and nearby structures with newspaper and painter’s tape. Do it to prevent the new layer from accidentally getting on those spots.
But for glass, you can also leave it bare to avoid leftover adhesive and use a glass scraper or paint remover afterward to remove stray paint. Make sure to scrape carefully to avoid damaging the glass. If possible, you can also remove the window sash to make it easier for you to work on a surface.
Whether working on wood or metal, it is vital to remove all dust present after sanding. If not, expect to see bumps and a rough finish after allowing the final coat to set. Dust may seem minuscule in size, but it can prevent a smooth finish. It’s even after applying multiple layers.
