8 Steps to Paint an Old Radiator

How to paint an old radiator

1. Turn off the radiator.

   If your radiator is only used for display purposes, then feel free to skip this test. If it’s operational, please proceed.
   
   First, turn it off by twisting the control valve clockwise at the unit’s base. Wait for the unit to cool off. Next, cover the control valve and vents with masking tape. Doing this stops anything from entering vents and valves, thus preventing mechanical issues with your unit following the work.
2. Prepare the work area.

   Surely, you don’t want to spill anything over the surrounding floor and walls. It’s not to mention your valuables while the work is ongoing. You also want to make sure that a work area is ideal, perhaps outside.
   
   First, move all appliances or furniture out of the way or into another room. Then clear the area of dust and dirt. You can use your trusty broom. If you want to clean more thoroughly and less time, a vacuum cleaner is your best friend.
   
   Next, cover the work area’s surrounding floor and walls with drop cloths. If you have none, it’s perfectly fine to use painter’s tape, plastic sheeting, or even tarps. Make sure to cover more area than what you’d normally expect is needed. Paint has a way of creeping into other areas if you’re not paying attention long enough.
   
   And this is important: open the windows! Paints contain toxic chemicals that can compromise your health once released into the air. To avoid asphyxiating yourself, open the windows to allow fumes to escape.
   

3. Clean the surface.

   Chances are your radiator has picked up a ton of dirt and grime over the years. Painting over a dirty surface is far from ideal. To clean the surface, dip a damp cloth in a solution of warm water and detergent mix and use it to wipe down the dirt and grime. Once the detergent has done its magic, wash any remaining dirt by rinsing it with water.
   
   Once it is squeaky clean, wipe it gently with a dry cloth and leave it to dry for at least 5 hours.

4. Check the radiator for lead paint.

   If the radiator was previously painted, you need to remove the old stuff to make a new layer.
   But not so fast. Before removing anything, you need to test if it contains any lead. It’s important if your radiator was painted before 1978.
   
   Now here’s the thing about lead. It’s not good for you. It is a metal that can be harmful to your health in more ways than one. If you scrape old parts from your radiator, the lead from the paint can be released into the air in the form of dust. It is endangering the health of those nearby.
   
   Using lead test kits is one effective way to confirm the presence of lead. You might want to buy them in bulk if you confirm the presence of lead in other areas of your home.
   
   Grab a putty knife once you’ve confirmed that the old stuff on your old radiator doesn’t contain any lead. Then gently scrape away the cracked or chipped parts from the surface. Once the loose parts are removed, sand the surface to clear the remaining residue. Some of the removed dust may fall on the surrounding areas, so it might be good to remove them using a vacuum cleaner. You want to make sure it is clean and dry before applying paint.
   
   Suppose the lead test confirms the presence of lead. In that case, the next order of business is to hire a professional refinisher who can prepare the area for you.
5. Remove the paint.

   If your radiator has been painted previously and is in desperate need of new life, you need first to remove the old stuff.
   
   First, prepare a bucket of TSP cleaner. Then dip a wire brush in the solution and scrub off the old from the surface.
   
   If that doesn’t work, use a removal solution that contains trisodium phosphate (TSP) instead. TSP is a special formula that can neutralize lead dust. You can also use Soy-Gel by The Real Milk Paint Company. This gel formulation traps lead in a gel-like substance before stripping paint. It prevents lead particles from escaping into the air during the area preparation phase.

6. Get rid of the rust.

   Radiators are prone to rust, at least those made of metal. It’s especially if it’s not well-maintained. Allow rust to have its way, and the metal surface will rot further. You don’t want that. After all, prolonged exposure to rust can harm one’s health. Besides, it’s impossible to do a decent job on any surface that contains rust.
   
   Sand the affected areas with fine-grit sandpaper between 40-120 grit to remove rust from the surface. You can use a ball of steel wool until the surface is smooth enough to receive paint. Once the rust particles have been scrubbed loose, wipe the surface off with a clean rag.
   
   If sanding the surface cannot remove all the rust, you can use a rust remover like Krylon’s Rust Tough Primer. Ospho is a great alternative to loosen up the rust particles further. Once the rust remover has been applied, scrub the surface again with a chip brush or a fiberglass brush. You’ll know the solution is working once the rust starts to bubble and turns a darker color. After scrubbing the loose rust off, let the surface dry overnight. By tomorrow, the surface will be ready for priming.

7. Prime the surface.

   Do I need to prime my radiator before painting?
   
   You bet! Painting a radiator is different from a table or a wall. Priming is still integral to the prep work. It’s perhaps even more so considering that the surfaces of radiators have to undergo plenty of temperature changes in their entire lifetime.
   
   Here are some specific tips to ensure that you’re using primer on your radiator the right way:
   Radiators are prone to rust, so make sure that you’re using a rust-resistant primer.
   If you’re living in cool climates, make sure that you use a primer to handle high temperatures. For example, some Rust-Oleum products can withstand up to 750° of heat.
   Before applying a primer on the surface, make sure it’s completely cold.
   
   Clean the surface by wiping it with a clean, dry cloth. Once you’re pretty sure that no dust or grease is remaining, scrub it lightly with fine sandpaper. This will roughen up the surface, allowing anything applied afterward to adhere to it easily.
   
   Now, on to applying the primer. Ideally, you must use a metal primer or a specialist radiator primer. This is because either can provide a good base that makes the surface an ideal environment for receiving subsequent coats.
   
   If you’re using a metal spray primer, spray at a distance of 12 to 18 inches from the surface. Spray away using a back and forth motion, ensuring that the primer is applied evenly on the surface.
   
   Once you’re done, let the surface dry again (refer to the instructions provided by the product). Most primers recommend a dry-off period of 24 hours before proceeding with the project.
8. Paint the radiator.

   Is the primer already dry? Now the fun stuff begins.
   
   Chances are you’re more comfortable using a brush. As you can imagine, some of the usual methods don’t apply when the object is painted a radiator. They have many tight gaps that can give you trouble, after all. Your skills with the brush might not be enough to give them the professional finish they deserve.
   
   You need to work slowly while administering those smooth brush strokes to get great results. It can get uncomfortable, as you will need to bend over and kneel on more than one occasion. It might be a good idea to bring brushes of different shapes and sizes with you. Your regular brush can make it difficult for you to maneuver around the radiator’s “ribs.”
   Sounds daunting, I know. Chances are, the following question has crossed your mind: Can you spray paint a radiator?
   
   Why, yes! Using it is ideal when working with radiators. It allows you to apply it at even seemingly possible angles. Are there nooks and crannies you want to get to? Spray away!
   Using a spray sounds easy enough, but here are a few precautions you need to take before you spray at your heart’s content:
   
   Read the label on the can to check if the product is safe to use indoors.
   
   Don’t use latex-based paint if your unit is made of cast iron. Doing so will cause them to rust over. Use a rust inhibitive primer to prevent rust buildup on a cast-iron one. We recommend the Rust-Oleum Protective Enamel product instead.
   
   Maybe you’re worried about using latex-based over oil-based solutions because it’s not as durable. Using a primer more than makes up for the durability lost.
   
   Again, spray at a distance of 12 to 18 inches from the surface. Spray evenly using a back-and-forth motion. Once you’re done with the first coating, let it dry for at least 10 minutes (recommended dry-off time may depend on the product). Then, apply the required second coat to ensure better durability and depth of color. Also, it’s always better to apply each coat in quick succession to prevent run-off from the original coat.
   
   Leave it dry for several hours once the paint has achieved more depth and a high gloss shine. Look at the recommended dry-off time specified in the product instructions.

9. Clean up the work area.

   Take off the painter’s tape from the vents and valves before drying up. This prevents the paint from being lifted along with the tape.
   
   Next, remove the plastic sheeting from the surrounding floor and walls. To remove drop cloths and plastic sheets without spilling on the floor or other surfaces, fold their edges toward the middle. Do that before taking them away. Clean the brushes before they dry up. Immerse dirty cloths in a container filled with water, then twist them until the dirty water runs out. Hang them to dry before sending them to the laundromat.
   
   If you used oil paint in the project, use mineral spirits or thinner to clean up. If you used latex-based paint, water and soap would work.
   
   Finally, put the cans away and store them at room temperature. Ensure that they’re not being subjected to very high or very low temperatures.